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Climbing Dispatches
26st May 2008 - Dawa Steven ascents Mount Everest, 8848m
Climbing Dispatches
21st May 2008 - Dawa Steven ascents Mount Lhotse, 8516m

Dawa Steven Sherpa and his other Sherpa team members reached the Summit of Lhotse (8516m) on 21 May. He had left the 7800m Camp 4 (known as Lhotse Wall) at 2:30 am and reached the top of Lhotse at 8:35 am.  Dawa took the ICIMOD 25th Anniversary flag with him to the summit of Lhotse and took photos with the flag. He and his team spent 45 minutes on the summit before descending to Camp 2. Dawa Steven plans to rest for a couple of days and then attempt the summit of Mt. Everest, most likely on 27 May or even earlier depending upon the weather conditions. 

Climbing Dispatches
18th May 2008 - Dawa Steven Sherpa @ Camp 2
Today I am at Camp 2 on Everest. I plan to climb to Camp 3 tomorrow 19 May and then on 20 May I intend to camp on the Lhotse Wall. Weather permitting I plan to summit Mt. Lhotse (8501m) on 21 May. Following this I will then descend and then continue my climb to the summit of Everest.
The weather so far has been good for climbing.
I am carrying the ICIMOD 25th Anniversary flag with me to the summit of Lhotse and then on to Everest.
Climbing Dispatches

10th May 2008 - Dawa Steven Sherpa

Finally, on the 8th of May, the Chinese Olympic expedition managed to summit Everest from the north side. Now, the government of Nepal has relaxed the rules to climb Everest and we are finally allowed to go higher than camp 2. What a great relief. Any longer and it could have been too late to safely climb to the summit.
During our wait, especially on 1st and 2nd of May, when the mountain was off limits, I decided to visit Imja Lake next To Island Peak. Imja glacier is receding at about 74m a year and is the fastest receding glacier in the Himalayas. It could even be the fastest receding glacier in the whole world. The receding glacier, as it melts away, leaves behind huge glacial lakes that are held back only by a dam of ice and rock. Imja Lake is over a kilometer long and in some places over 90m deep. What makes the situation so critical is that Imja Lake lies directly upstream of most of the trekking trail to Mt. Everest base camp. This trail is one of the busiest in the country and is also the jewel in the crown of Nepal’s tourism industry.
If Imja were to burst, not only would this mean a great human tragedy but also huge economic devastation.
Since my last update, I went up Everest for my second acclimatization climb. I left at about 5 a.m. while it was still dark to avoid being cooked alive in the sun, magnified by our white icy reflective surroundings. This time I went as high as Camp 2, arriving at 10a.m., and I stayed at Camp 2 for a couple of nights. The whole business of acclimatizing is extremely tiresome and boring. Camp 2 is at 6500m and every action becomes exhausting and you frequently find yourself out of breath. To pass the time without exhausting ourselves, we took to playing cards for most of the day. The day I returned to Base Camp the Chinese Olympic expedition managed to summit Everest from the north side (we are on the south side).
Now, that the restrictions have been removed, the Sherpas have rushed ahead and already fixed the route up to Camp 3. It took them less than 2 days! We expect that the ropes to Camp 4 will be fixed in the next two or three days. Camp 4 on Everest is the last camp before going for the summit. Generally the Sherpas don’t stay overnight at Camp 2 until its time to make an assault on the higher camps, Camp 3 and Camp 4.
Before the Sherpas headed up we had a small meeting and I briefed them about the use of the human waste disposal bags and the importance of bringing back these bags down so that they may be properly disposed of. Fortunately, I have enjoyed overwhelming support from my Climbing Sherpas. We have already collected 682 kilos of garbage from Camp 2 and Base camp - the Sherpas are equally excited about tackling the human waste problem on the mountain.
Mt. Lhotse (8501m) shares about 60 percent of the climbing route with Everest. We share Camps 1, 2 and 3 on the route to both Everest and Lhotse. The 4th and final camp on Lhotse and Everest are different. We have already collected enough rope and organized the necessary "Sherpa-power" to secure the route from the Camp 3 to Lhotse's Camp 4 and on to the summit.
If all goes well, I hope to summit Mt. Lhotse and return to base camp. This should take me about 5 days in total from Base Camp. At Base Camp I will rest and recover while the ropes are being set to the summit of Everest. Once the route is secure I hope to make my second summit bid and hopefully, with good luck and blessings from the mountains, I will be able to able stand on the summit of Mt. Everest for the second time with the ICIMOD banner, drawing the world’s attention to the impact of Climate change on the Himalayas.
News by: ecoeverest.net.np

Everest record breaker Apa Sherpa expected to join the Eco Everest

29th April 2008

Apa Sherpa, the 17th times world record holder of Everest is expected to join the Eco Everest Expedition for the 18th time to the summit. He was honoured as the Chief Guest at the Glacier Lake Outburst Flood Awareness Workshop which was held on 25 April in Namche Bazar. Organized as one of the events during the Eco Everest Research expedition, the workshop aimed to raise the awareness of the local community and organizations on the impacts of climate change in the Himalaya
more >
News by: ecoeverest.net.np
ICIMOD Silver Jubilee Flag handed over to Dawa Steven Sherpa, leader, Eco Everest Expedition 2008 at Everest Base Camp

18th April 2008

Dr. Andreas Schild, Director General of ICIMOD handed over the ICIMOD silver jubilee flag to Dawa Steven Sherpa, the leader of the climbing team, to be taken to the top of the world. The Eco Everest Expedition was conceived by Dawa Steven, whose personal near tragedy of an ice collapse in the Khumbu ice fall in 2007 led him to ICIMOD to seek some answers. His realization of the potential impact of climate change on the lives of his people in the Khumbu region was the birth of the Eco Everest Expedition 2008.

  On the same occasion the ICIMOD Information Centre, and a repeat photography exhibition, 50 Years of Change - Glaciers, Landscapes, People and Resilience in the Mount Everest Region, Nepal was also opened at Everest Base Camp. The photographs demonstrate the changes in the climatic, cultural and physical landscape of the Khumbu over the past half century.

At the function Dr. Andreas Schild, Director General of ICIMOD, stressed the need for immediate action focusing on understanding the impacts of climate change, and finding ways to strengthen people's resilience and support adaptation.

News by: ecoeverest.net.np

Crucial Role of Timely Monitoring and Research in Helping Mountain Communities in Disaster Risk Reduction: Shomare Village, Khumbu region
17th April 2008

Shomare for climbers is a small cluster of houses with a "fantastic close-up view of Ama-Dablam" on their way to the Mount Everest Base Camp. It is also a place to rest and take a meal between Pangboche and Pheriche.

For the ICIMOD research team it is the location of Shomare that sends warning bells tingling. Shomare is situated on the west bank of the Imja River on the old landslide debris and close to the active landslide. According to the research team, if the Imja lake bursts its banks (link Google Earth) the resulting outburst of water could wipe out the entire Shomare Village.

 These are the kinds of observations that the research team is gathering in their effort to contribute to reducing disaster risks created by climate change in the lives of mountain communities. The scientific field study is a part of the Eco Everest Expedition 2008 organised by Asian Trekking, ICIMOD and UNEP.

 The ICIMOD research team is carrying out detailed field investigations to study the climate change impacts on the glaciers and glacial lakes. The team also tries to assess the potential risk of glacial lake outburst floods (GLOF) activities to mountain communities living downstream.

News by: ecoeverest.net.np

Revisiting 1985 Dig Tsho GLOF site: Himalayan GLOF risk assessment by ICIMOD
17th April 2008

The memories of the sudden flood of black water that washed away their entire livelihood still haunt Lhakpa Chamjee and Ang Maya, even though the ICIMOD research team estimates Dig Tsho lake to be considerably more safe at the moment.

23 years after the GLOF occurred on 4 August 1985, ICIMOD's research team revisited the Dig Tsho Glacial Lake Outburst Flood (GLOF) site and downstream river banks on 10th April 2008 as part of the ongoing Eco Everest expedition (www.ecoeverest.net.np). The Dig Tsho GLOF site is in the Langmoche and Bhote Koshi valleys. The purpose of the visit was to study the present conditions.

The analysis of temporal series of satellite images show that the size of the Dig Tsho lake seems stable. The present observations show that further retreat of the steep Langmoche glacier will not cause the lake to further expand at the far end as the glacier retreat will only expose the bed rock. The present outlet of the lake is at the same level as the Langmoche river bed and a large mass failure at breach area that can close the outlet causing rise of the lake water level can be ruled out. This observation supports the view that a second outburst from Dig Tsho Lake seems unlikely.

Even though the likelihood of a second GLOF from Dig Tsho is small the threat of GLOFs in general in the valley remains, as there are several other glacial lakes in the vicinity. These are growing rapidly, and could potentially reach a stage where an outburst could happen. Such events threaten the very livelihoods of local people and economy. Regular scientific monitoring with in-situ measurements of these lakes is necessary to take preventive measures to safeguard the mountain communities and the environment. As part of the EcoEverest Expedition the ICIMOD research team will conduct a detailed field investigation and establish a pilot early warning system in Imja lake, in collaboration with Department of National Park and Wildlife Conservation and Keio University of Japan.

News by: ecoeverest.net.np

Climate Change Affects Local Life in Thukla: Small GLOF activities in the Khumbu Glacier

Tshering Lhakpa Sherpa, resident of Thukla shares a local resident’s perspective of glacial lake outburst flooding

The bridge over Khumbu River got washed away by a flash flood for the fourth time in 2007. It was also the fourth time that Tshering Lhakpa Sherpa had to repair the bridge. T A lifeline between Thukla and Pheriche, the bridge is a crucial means for commuting. The Khumbu River originates from the Khumbu Glacier. Fed up, Tshering Lhakpa decided to find out what was causing this unusual frequency in the surge in the Khumbu River. He went up to the Khumbu Glacier and noticed small ponds of glacial lakes bursting their fragile banks, resulting in the small GLOF activities. Tshering Lhakpa also remarks that the snow cover consequently the borderline is receding up the mountain.

News by: ecoeverest.net.np

Everest Expedition Kicks Off
7 April 2008

The first dispatch from Team 1 has come in at 10:30 this morning (8th April 2008). The original scheduled flight on 7th April had to return to Kathmandu because it was unable to land due to unfavourable weather conditions. Basanta has sent in the following dispatch of their arrival at Lukla Airport:

"The Team 1 of ICIMOD Eco Everest arrives in Lukla."

 Lukla Airport is at an elevation of 9,380 ft. (2,860m) and is situated in the town of Lukla in eastern Nepal. The airport is the starting point for trekkers climbing Mount Everest. The paved tarmac is only accessible to helicopters and small fixed wing short takeoff and landing (STOL) aircraft such as Twin Otters. There is about a 700-metre (2,000 ft) angled drop at the end of the runway to the valley far below.

 "We are all set to go to Monjo."

News by: ecoeverest.net.np

Auspicious Beginning for the Eco Everest Expedition and the Scientific Research Teams
4th April 2008

On 5th April 2008 at ICIMOD, the Eco Everest Expedition and the Scientific Research teams were given a traditional and auspicious start to their mission to spread the message about climate change and the need for every individual to be involved.

The Expedition team was represented by Dawa Steven Sherpa (leader of the Expedition) and Basanta Shrestha (leader of the Research Team). Other team members included: Samjwal Bajracharya, Birendra Bajracharya, Paribesh Pradhan and Sarad Joshi.

The auspicious symbols of tika (blessed vermilion powder) flower garland, and khada (silk scarf with auspicious symbols and greetings) representing Nepal's multicultural society were offered by ICIMOD colleagues Samjhana Thapa, Anjali Shrestha and Prerna Thapa respectively. These items symbolize protection, safeguard and success for anybody embarking on a major mission.

 Milan Tuladhar rounded the ceremony off by "sweetening" the mouths of the team members by feeding them "laddoos" (Nepali sweet), another symbol for wishing the team success and fruitfulness in their venture.

 "... on behalf of the Team 1, I would like to express sincere thanks and appreciation for our Directorate colleagues for a surprise traditional Nepali programme 'wishing all of us a good luck' along with Dawa Steven Sherpa." e-mail message from Basanta, 4th April 2008

News by: ecoeverest.net.np